Terroir: resnica- Winestealssd.com

Terroir je ena izmed tistih besed, ki jih vsi v vinskem svetu sprejmejo, toda kaj to v resnici pomeni? In ali res vpliva na vina, za katera trdijo proizvajalci? Rupert Joy kopa globoko, da bi izvedel

ncis sezona 8 epizoda 10

Južno od Condrieu v severni Roni leži majhen apelacija Château-Grillet. Njegova 3,4 hektarja vinske trte na strmih pobočjih naravnega amfiteatra dajejo majhne količine vina iz iste sorte grozdja in tal kot njen veliko večji sosed Condrieu. Toda od leta 1936 je bil priznan kot ločen AC in prodaja veliko več. Njegova lastnica Isabelle Baratin-Canet poudarja, da je bila izvirnost vina iz njegovih granitnih tal in izpostavljenosti, obrnjene proti jugu, prepoznana že stoletja. Toda nekateri njeni sosedje se sprašujejo, ali obstaja takšna razlika med teroarjema Château-Grillet in Condrieu.

Zamisel, da določeni deli zemljišč dajejo posebno velika vina, ni nova. Filozof John Locke, ki je leta 1677 obiskal Bordeaux, je opazil 'posebnost v tleh' Château Haut-Brion, ki ga je ločila od sosedov. Knjiga opata Arnouxa, objavljena v Londonu leta 1728, je veličino Montracheta v Burgundiji pripisala določenemu pasu zemlje na Obali.

Sodoben pojav je uporaba besede 'terroir' za opis ideje. Njegove prvotne francoske konotacije so bile zaničljive. Do srede 20. stoletja je vin terroité pomenil rustikalno, zemeljsko vino z v najboljšem primeru nekakšnim šarmom jokela in v najslabšem primeru napakami. Vino z goût de terroir (aromo terroirja) je bilo slabo izdelano vino, ki je imelo okus po nezrelem ali gnilem grozdju. Zamisel o terroirju kot bolj pozitivnem atributu se je pojavila šele ob rojstvu AC sistema v tridesetih letih.

Vsak ima svojo definicijo terroirja. Morda je najpreprostejše tisto ameriškega pisatelja vina Matta Kramerja, ki to opisuje kot 'nekje'. Večina francoskih opredelitev, vključno z definicijo INAO (telesa, odgovornega za francoski sistem AC), vključuje štiri ključne elemente: fizične značilnosti kraja (zlasti tla in izpostavljenost), podnebje, uporabljeno sorto grozdja in vlogo človeka .

dillon zapusti y & r

Le malo ljudi bi oporekalo osnovni predpostavki, da imajo vina določene značilnosti iz kraja gojenja njihovega grozdja in da ima človek vlogo pri izražanju teh lastnosti. Toda glede na to, da skoraj vsak proizvajalec vina danes trdi, da proizvaja vina, ki spoštujejo terroir, in trdi, da je pristop 'neintervencijski', se potrošnik z vsemi razlogi sprašuje, kaj terroir pomeni v praksi.

plesne mame 4. sezona 4. epizoda

Korenine terroirja

Morda zato, ker je beseda podobna 'terenu', navadno povezujemo terroir predvsem z zemljo. To pa lahko spodbudi zaznavanje, da vina neposredno pridobivajo okus iz zemlje, v kateri so pridelana.

Klasičen primer je Chablis, eno najbolj prepoznavnih vin na svetu. Kljub temu, da je narejen iz vseprisotne sorte grozdja, Chablisov izraz Chardonnay ni podoben izrazu iz katere koli druge regije. Najbolj cenjena vina prihajajo iz mehkega kemeridžanskega krednega laporja, sestavljenega iz prazgodovinskih lupin ostrig.

Proizvajalci in vinarji pogosto povezujejo značilni kremensko-jodni okus vina in geologijo regije. „Kako si lahko drugače razložite jodirane note v Chablisu, če ne s sestavo tal?“ Se sprašuje Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'Tega okusa ne najdete v chardonnayih, pridelanih drugje.'

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