Španske amfore, znane kot tinaje, so prevzele barike v kleti Elisabette Foradori v Trentinu
- Poudarki
- Dolgo prebiranje vinskih člankov
- Revija: številka maj 2018
Simon Woolf preiskuje poročila o kontrarevoluciji v italijanskih vinskih kleteh ...
V filmu Paola Casalisa iz leta 2014 je kratek, a dramatičen trenutek Barolo Boys: Zgodba o revoluciji ko vinar Elio Altare odpelje motorno žago do impozantne linije botov (tradicionalnih velikih hrastovih sodov), ki stojijo v kleti njegove družine.
Njegovo obredno uničenje teh častitljivih posod, sprejeto leta 1983, je imelo praktični namen - ustvariti prostor za novo kupljene manjše barike iz francoskega hrasta. Toda močna simbolika je bila jasna - domnevno smrdljivi, razpadajoči botiji so predstavljali stari red. Vrsti popolnih, na novo sodelujočih barikov so poslali jasno sporočilo modernosti in sloga.
Pomaknite se navzdol in si oglejte Woolfov izbor italijanskih vin, izdelanih brez hrasta
Kar se je leta 1983 zdelo najmodernejše, je konec devetdesetih let postalo pravilo za prestižne italijanske kleti. Toda v zadnjem času odločilno hrastovo božanje barriqueja ni bilo naklonjeno, od Furlanije na severovzhodu do Sicilije na jugu in vseh točk med njimi.
Italijanski vinarji vse pogosteje prehajajo na alternativne materiale in posode za fermentacijo in staranje, ki segajo od arkana do naravnega outrea.
Tam, kjer so nekoč stali bariki, so to lahko amfore, gruzijski qvevris, betonska jajca ali veliki akacijevi sodi. Je to zgolj ciklično brušenje modne tekalne steze ali del odločnejšega gibanja k večji pristnosti in izrazu?
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Woolfove degustacijske note in ocene za izbor italijanskih vin, izdelanih brez hrasta:
Zanimivi Članki
