Bordeaux 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Kaj je to pong? LINDA MURPHY preučuje zelo obrekovan, napačno razumljen, a ponekod cenjen svet Brettanomyces.
V prvem letu svoje vinske kariere sem nalival vino na razstavi vrhunskih steklenic z vsega sveta. Na oddihu od stojnice sem šel po sobi, da pokušam še marsikatero ponudbo.
Ko sem se vrnil za svojo mizo, me je vinar zraven vprašal: ‘Vas je res kaj navdušilo?’ ‘Châteauneuf-du-Pape iz leta 1989 iz Château de Beaucastel,’ sem odgovoril. Nasmehnil se je: »Bretta moraš imeti rad.« Čeprav nisem vedel, kaj je bil takrat Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-see) -, sem oboževal zemeljski, usnjeni, dimljeni slanini in začimbah Beaucastela. , mesnato sadje in trdna struktura.
Kasneje bi izvedel, da bi bil Brett, naravno prisoten kvas, ki ga še ni škodljivo zaužiti, lahko dobro in slabo vplival na arome in okuse vina, da bi bil vroča tema med vinarji, v razpravi pa ni nobenega jasnega zmagovalca.
Vinarji ga imenujejo 'beseda B' in v najboljšem primeru lahko Brettanomyces vinu dajo tisto, kar mnogi menijo, da so pozitivni atributi, ki dodajo kompleksnost in globino: zemeljski okus usnjenih rokavic, prekajenega mesa, slanine, tobaka, tartufov, nageljnovih žbic in druge slane pijače začimbe.
Ko pa B postane slab, lahko vinu naredi žaljiv smrad na dvorišču, gnoju, obližih, mokrem psu, prepoteni konjski odeji, iztrebkih miši in antiseptiku. V strahu pred slednjim mnogi vinarji po vsem svetu storijo vse, da preprečijo onesnaženje Brett-a.
Drugi ga malo spodbujajo, za tisto dodatno mero zanimanja pa se je treba še potruditi, da divji kvas ne bo prevzel sortnega značaja in sadnosti. Drugi, no, recimo, da če je čistoča zraven pobožnosti, nekateri vinarji ne hodijo v cerkev. Tisti, ki trdijo, da je goût de terroir za svoja neprijetna stekleničenja, se zgolj izgovarjajo na nehigijenske prakse.
Prijatelj ali sovražnik?
Obstaja več vrst - in teorij - o Brettanomyces, in popolna razprava zahteva mikrobiološko tezo. Najenostavneje je z Brettom identificirano dve spojini, ki spreminjata vino: 4-etil gvajakol (4-npr.), Ki s svojimi negativnimi ometi prispeva tisto, kar mnogi mislijo k slanini in začimbam, in 4-etil fenol 4-ep), mokri pes in zdravilne lastnosti.
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Zanimivi Članki
