Eden burgundskih velikanov. Zasluge: Domaine Dujac
Burgundski mojster Clive Coates MW vam pove vse, kar morate vedeti o Domaine Dujac, skupaj z zgodovinskimi opombami o vinih iz najboljših letnikov - kot del serije, ki se ozira na profile domen iz najnovejših Cliveovih knjig.
Za razliko od večine burgundskih posesti, ne glede na to, ali polnijo že vrsto desetletij ali so se na to pot podali šele pred kratkim, je Domaine Dujac nedavno ustvarjanje. Izhaja iz leta 1968. Jacques Seysses, ustanovitelj, je v zgodnjih sedemdesetih letih, zdaj pa se je zavzel v prid svojim sinovoma Jeremyju in Alecu ter Jeremyjevi ženi Diani, izučeni vinski kemiki (enolog). Zdaj že nekaj letnikov delajo kot trio.
So se stvari spremenile? Ali bi morali pričakovati bolj radikalne razlike v vinih v primerjavi s starimi Dujaci? Šel sem gor k Morey-St-Denisu, da bi ugotovil.
Oče Jacquesa Seyssesa, bogataš, zadolžen za podjetje, ki je izdelovalo piškote, je bil znan poznavalec hrane in vina, doma v restavracijah s tremi zvezdicami, z lastno fino kletjo.
Pomaknite se navzdol, da si ogledate Cliveove opombe in rezultate
Jacques se je kot najstnik spominjal obiskov restavracij s tremi zvezdicami v Parizu in drugod.
„Ne morem vam natančno povedati, katera je bila prva odlična steklenica vina,' pravi, „a to je bil najverjetneje Rousseau ali Gouges iz enega od velikih letnikov, ki smo jih imeli takoj po vojni.
Spominjam se obiska La Tour d'Argent. Oče je izbral steklenico La Tâche 1938 (ni odličen letnik). Bil je skoraj rožnate barve. Naši gostje so bili precej šokirani. Aroma in intenzivnost tega vina sta bila izjemna. To je moralo biti približno leta 1958, ko sem bil star 17 let. Spominjam se, da je oče odredil, da se preostali del zaloge rezervira zase. '
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Oglejte si Cliveove ocene vin za najboljše letnike Dujac:
Kje kupiti knjigo Clive Coates MW 'Moje najljubše Burgundije':
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